What is raw vs one-wash denim?

Raw (unwashed) denim shrinks on first wash; one-wash has been pre-shrunk. Sizing differs between them, so confirm which you're buying before choosing a size.

How do I size Japanese denim?

Use the flat measurements (waist, inseam, thigh) and account for shrinkage on raw denim. Compare to a pair that fits and confirm raw vs one-wash.

Denim · Specialist Guide

How to Buy Japanese Selvedge Denim from Overseas

Q: Why is Japanese selvedge denim special?

Japan weaves selvedge denim on vintage shuttle looms and is famed for quality, character and craftsmanship from brands like Momotaro, Iron Heart, Samurai and Studio D'Artisan.

Japan makes the world’s most revered denim — woven on vintage shuttle looms with obsessive craft. Here’s how to import a pair from the source and nail the sizing.

Specialist guide · Last updated June 2026 · ~10 min read

Quick answer: Japanese selvedge brands (Momotaro, Iron Heart, Samurai, Studio D’Artisan, Oni, Fullcount, Warehouse and more) are sold mostly through Japan-facing shops and a strong secondhand market — so use a proxy. The make-or-break detail is sizing: confirm raw vs one-wash (raw shrinks) and buy by measurements, not the tag.

What this guide covers

Why Japanese denim is special
Brands & what they’re known for
Raw vs one-wash & shrinkage
Sizing by measurements
Shipping, cost & customs
FAQ

Why Japanese denim is special

Japan revived vintage shuttle-loom weaving to produce selvedge denim with character, texture and fades that mass-market jeans can’t match. Brands obsess over yarn, indigo, hardware and construction, and many models or fits are easiest to find in Japan — often cheaper than at overseas stockists.

Brands & what they’re known for

Momotaro, Japan Blue — Okayama craft, signature details.
Iron Heart — heavyweight, rugged denim.
Samurai, Oni, Studio D’Artisan, Fullcount, Warehouse — distinctive weaves, fades and repro details.

Raw vs one-wash & shrinkage

Raw (unwashed) denim shrinks on first soak/wash — sometimes significantly — so it’s bought larger to account for it. One-wash is pre-shrunk, so what you measure is closer to what you get. Confirm which you’re buying before choosing a size; mixing them up is the classic denim-import mistake.

Sizing by measurements

Use the listed flat measurements — waist, inseam, thigh, front/back rise, hem — and compare to a pair that fits you. For raw denim, factor in expected shrinkage. A proxy can ask the seller for exact measurements if they aren’t listed.

Shipping, cost & customs

Denim is heavy for clothing, so shipping is a real factor, and apparel duties can apply. Consolidating multiple items helps. Total cost = item price + (domestic shipping) + proxy fee + international shipping + possible customs.

Unsure about raw sizing?

Get a free quote and have a person confirm measurements and raw vs one-wash.

Get a free quote

Frequently asked questions

Why is Japanese selvedge denim special?

It’s woven on vintage shuttle looms with renowned craft and character from brands like Momotaro, Iron Heart and Samurai.

What is raw vs one-wash?

Raw shrinks on first wash; one-wash is pre-shrunk. Sizing differs, so confirm which before choosing a size.

How do I size it?

Use flat measurements, account for shrinkage on raw, and compare to a pair that fits.

Last updated: June 2026. General information; not affiliated with any brand. Verify sizing before buying.